If you want perfectly browned bread, opt for the straightforwardness of a basic toaster. Toaster ovens generally don't toast bread as well. They leave tiger stripes on one side, and they take longer to do the job--4 to 6 minutes compared with 2 to 3 minutes for toasters, on a medium setting. But if you prefer a multifunction appliance that can not only toast but also bake muffins, heat frozen snacks, broil a small batch of burgers, or bake a small chicken, a toaster oven could be right for your needs.

Either way, you can get good performance without spending a lot. For about $20, you can buy a competent product that will make decent toast with all the basics: a darkness control to adjust browning, a push-down lever to raise or lower the bread, and cool-touch housing to prevent finger burns. For about $60, you can get a toaster that's stylish as well as functional.


WHAT'S AVAILABLE

Toastmaster invented the pop-up toaster in the 1920s and now shares shelf space with other venerable brands of toasters and toaster ovens such as Black & Decker, Hamilton Beach, and Sunbeam, plus players such as Cuisinart, DeLonghi, Kenmore (Sears), KitchenAid, Krups, Rival, T-Fal, and West Bend. Dualit makes old-fashioned, commercial-style, heavy-gauge stainless-steel toasters.

Toasters come in a variety of exterior finishes, such as chrome, copper, brushed metal, and colors. Of the 12 million toasters sold annually, two-slice models outsell four-slicers by about 3 to 1. More than 90 percent of toaster ovens sold are equipped with a broiler function. Most toaster ovens are countertop models, though a few under-the-cabinet models are sold.

Price range: $10 to $100 and up (toasters); $20 to $100 and up (toaster ovens and broilers).


HOW TO CHOOSE


Toasters
If you want mainly to toast bread, bagels, and English muffins, a toaster is the right choice.

Consider the features. Find a toaster with the features that suit your needs. A bread lift is handy as are warm/reheat and defrost settings, and easy-to-use controls. Some toasters (and toaster ovens) have a way to wrap the cord to keep it from wriggling over countertops, an added convenience.

Assess space and capacity. If you're buying a two-slice model it might have two side-by-side slots or one long slot for two slices. Four-slice toasters tend to be bulky, but they save time when everyone's trying to be out the door by 8 a.m. All the toasters can fit a split-packaged bagel. Those with a "bagel" setting can toast on one side, such as the cut side of a bagel.

Stay safe. Toasters that have a plastic housing are less likely to retain heat and feel hot to fingers than those made of metal. It's important never to operate a toaster or toaster oven and leave the room. While we've had no problems in the lab with tested models, it's probably a good idea to unplug your toaster or toaster oven when you're not using it--just like your mother told you.


Toaster ovens
To toast and cook, pick a toaster oven.

Consider the features. If you'll be cooking burgers, be sure the toaster oven can broil. If speed is of the essence, consider a toaster oven that uses infrared heating, which speeds toasting. For ease of use, select a model with an electronic touchpad and a porcelain interior. Some toaster ovens come with nonstick pans. Citing health concerns, the Environmental Protection Agency has asked manufacturers to reduce the use of perfluorooctanic acid, or PFOA, in nonstick products. While the EPA says the routine use of those products is safe, if you're concerned don't use the toaster oven's nonstick pan.

Factor in counter space and capacity. Some toaster ovens are bigger than others. The more-compact models’ width and depth are about 16x12 inches. A large model can be 20x17 inches.